Next Big Adventure?
Reading through the posts...wistful...memories, and good times. Something has to be planned....
I am on it!
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Reading through the posts...wistful...memories, and good times. Something has to be planned....
It was cold when we got up at 7am. The origin of the klank was found. Tom’s blue cooler bag he had left behind stuffed with chicken and sausages well past their prime!
Monday, 3rd Oct.
Up at 7am to pack up the camp. Couldn’t believe it when I heard that some of the lads had gone for a night ride in the early hours of the morning. Tanked up, there were apparently some interesting weaving techniques employed.
We went for a 6 mile warm up loop on a trail called Joe’s Ridge. The air cut my throat like a thin wire. It was dreadful. It really was not that challenging at all, but I quickly fell to the back of the line. Jerome, ever the gentleman waited for me. There he was…. on a single speed, first year riding waiting for me. We got back to camp and I spitting up phlegm. There was no way in hell I was riding the next section they were planning on.
Tom arrived from
We drove out to the trailhead where we unloaded. It was midday. The heat washed over us and as I peered up the ravines where we were heading I simply wasn’t a happy camper. We watered up and headed out.
It was rather spectacular. Tom belted down off the road and dropped in on the single track. Too fast. He tried to jump the rocks and it didn’t execute as expected. We all stopped about 10 feet from him in shock as he shot to his feet. There HAD to be something broken. 8 minutes into the ride and man down! He was fine, just a pinch flat which he changed.
The first section of the ride was ‘More Fun’ affectionately known by the locals as ‘More Blood.’ Imagine looking at the top of a mountain and spying little goat tracks zigzagging back and forth up it—that was ‘More Fun.’ I was sure that I have a seizure going up there. It was rocky, bouncy, steep and hot. Everything I thought I wanted to avoid for the day given my morning ride experience.
We passed onto Mack’s Ridge. We climbed and climbed and then raced down the other side with three punctures slowing us down. We connected with Lions Loop and then onto Mary’s. It was a thread-like trail on the edge, and I mean on the edge with the river below.
“Horse Thief is a must-do” we were told with authority by Mark. The entrance to the trail is a series of giant steps which need to be negotiated with bike hoisted high. By now it was getting on into the afternoon. It was a fabulous trail dipping and rolling and fast. I was still feeling good following Tim, Tom and Mark.
Aaron never ceases to amaze me. His technical skill is lovely to watch. Tom is a very strong rider. After a steady start, Tim shot out and was often in the lead, another very strong rider. Randy moved back and forth, stopping a few times to take ‘action’ shots of us. Mark was solid, as Chickering always is.
The last haul was to get out of the bowl of Horse Thief. By now, we were all whacked. “That Coors is calling for me” Jerome called out behind me. We got back to the huge series of steps we had used to descend onto Horse Thief. Carrying our bikes up there on this time was brutal!
Fast run down Mary’s towards the car. I was close behind Tim up in frost and we were hammering. It felt marvelous to be closing an amazing ride…all 22 miles of it as the sun set to my ride. ‘Psssst…’ Tim had a pinch flat literally a mile from the van. I tossed him the last tube we had amongst us; one that I picked up from a store in
Back at
We traveled through the picturesque town of
After passing through
1384 miles in total in 22 hours!
Mark conjured up a brilliant chili meal which went down a treat. Except..that within half an hour the gourmet treat was making itself known around the fire through a number of enriched exercises of flatulence.
Jerome and I kipped early in his two man tent while Randy stayed up waiting for Aaron who was joining our group.
Jerome and I were up to see sunrise at 6:18am and get the fire going. Not sure what he is feeling, but there is a certain amount of trepidation about riding for a week with these hard-core riders. Last night Mark was giving us a quick informal briefing as he ate his chili, headlight strapped to his forehead below his red cap. “We’ll do a 5 miles warm up loop through Dead Man’s Rift and then pack up and drive over for a nice 30 mile loop which will include Devils Cauldron, Bent Fork Ridge and Gut Wrenching Decent (names invented, but along these lines. Believe me). Keeping saying to myself that if I just take it slow and easy, I have the staying power, yes I do, yes I do…etc. etc.
The heat was ratcheting up now. We are in 'Colorful Colorado.' 2pm as we pulled up to a garage to fill up. "Stubs Stop" the sign said in red cursive.
I stood in the queue waiting to order something to eat. The two guys in front of me were exchanging body injury stories. "I have no pelvis! Black ice...." the guy in the pink shirt said knowlingly.
"I basically had no bladder for over a month. Hit a semi on the north interstate" the shorter of the two shot back for measurement. His low slung belt hosted three cell phones and his long oily hair clung damply to his shirt.
I was sure I would not have much of an appetite for my burrito and two beef tornados!
"What is a Canadian seal's favorite drink?" Jerome suddenly asked breaking the easy silence in the van. ...."Canadian Club on the rocks"
20 miles to Denver and we can see the mountains in the distance now.
(Sent from mobile Treo 650)
Mara’s images were stunning. Each mounted in an old wooden window against the red brick wall of Evolutions. Many people we know came down to say hello as they walked the block. Bobby, James and I strolled up to Van Dolfsons to see Bruce’s display of paintings, remarking how amazing it was that we could imbibe openly on a Wausau street
At 9:30pm we all met at Randy’s place, packed in the last of carry-on gear and were off! The spacing in the van worked out pretty well with 2 sitting in the front, one each on the mid-benches and one kipping on the back bed.
In no time at all we had Randy’s new JVC XM-ready AUX enabled stereo hooked up to Mark’s laptop playing Zappa as we headed south for the exit to Coloma. At one point, Randy dimmed the music and said “I have somewhat of an announcement to make, and I’d better do it now as I won’t be able to keep it to myself for the whole trip.” He was greeted with a cheer. See Zara for more details!
“Where’s the porn?” Jerome asked Mark as the next song was selected from the laptop playlist. “I brought porn audio cassettes” Randy piped up from the front. “You know when you real tired, you just listen to porn and drift off to sleep……” The conversation dropped into a sewer from there, so I shall spare the blog due to the sensitive nature of some of our readersJ
We took turns driving through the night. The harsh staccato of the rumble strips had me up bolt upright in the back. Randy had been looking for his ‘Good Sense’ Roasted & Salted sunflower seeds and had wandered off the highway! Shite!
We have just crossed the
The nip was definitely in the air as we made rendezvous at Randy's house last night to pack his monstrous white van with 10 bikes, wood, ice cooler boxes, myriads of sleeping bags and camp chairs.
As Mark—headlight firmly strapped to his forehead—fitted fork clamps to the roof racks, Jerome complained of a broken toe and Randy ran back and forth trying to be as productive as possible. Tim and I held onto our Old Styles and sipped. After an hour or so we had 7 of the 10 bikes in place up on the roof and the area under the bed at the back of the van was jammed full of gear.
I was especially pleased with the fitment of a new stereo in the van complete with XM-radio, good stuff Randy-o! When Jerome mentioned something about it being ‘foot-stomping’ time back at home, I agreed and we both took off saying our goodbyes.
We plan to meet at Evolutions in Design this evening where Mara has her ‘BODYPARTS’ solo photography exhibition. We will leave for Fruita from there! Long time planning and dreaming of this epic trip with mind-blowing mountain biking…and here we are!!!!
This is pretty cool chaps. It allows you to post messages and images taken with cam-phone to the blog site.
Oh that’s nothing
Just the gas lantern
Smashing into the ceiling
The riverfront looks different from the river
Towns and cities too
The river looks different from the river
The hum of the motor back in the well
Long line mindless barges with their determined tugs
Churning the water deeply
Ripping up the grasses
That bind our little motor down
Whirlpools and schools of whirlpools
Linger and spin the trailing tail
Of slow motion barges
Industrial dinosaurs
Flat boats john boats keel boats steamers
Floating casinos not moving at all
Ghostly in the morning mist
Speed boats house boats launches pontoons
Jet skis yachts cabin cruisers
Riding each others wake
On the
Little towns strung along the shoreline
Maybe a broke down gas pier
Maybe a funky little harbor
The houses face the river
As a sign of respect
For this big wet vein
Whose watershed extends over 28 states
Barges heaped with coal coming up
Barges binned with grain going down
Artery, vein
Some kind of energy exchange
Waving
It’s a weekday work day morning
Mostly just the serious river runners
Out here now
And they mostly follow the custom
International custom
Of acknowledging those you pass
In other vessels.
A little wave
A nod or doff of hat
Maybe just fingers to the brim
A sweep of arm or one finger wave
International acknowledgment
On the high seas
On
On the gravel roads of the
People who would argue
Maybe even fight
If they got any closer in time or space
Don’t agree on nothin’
But this international acknowledgment
The custom of a wave
Old Water
The oldest fresh water
Is in
The water starts out young
And far away
In mist and dew
In tiny itinerant streams
Coursing and joining
Forces with other waters
And eventually maturing
Into the Mighty
Life blood of the land
Houses on the hillsides
Houses on the top
Houses on the river
That never stops
Red light green light
Passing port to port
Ships in the twilight
Staying on course
At first we were worried
We weren’t prepared
We’d left something out
We’d get out there and gone
Beyond reach of what we’d need
Couldn’t put a finger on it
We took a risk
Shoved off
Fates to the wind
And later
When the boat gained a rhythm
We opened the bag chairs
And there they were ---
Cup holders
DANGER
ALL VOIDS ARE
CONFINED SPACES
Sign posted on a barge wall
Sean was busy at his laptop. After his third quick move to avoid splash when we crossed a wake he said “Shite, it’s hard to get any work done”. To which I responded “That’s why I’m here”. Bobby added a deep chuckling grin and a thumbs up.
Lock 20 has a little yard with a waterwheel. They let us free float. Lockman came by up top on his little yellow electric Cushman cart as we were going down. Jolly looking fellow to whom we yelled out “Hey, you know how far it is to
PULL CORD
IN RECESS
FOR LOCKAGE
Sign for small craft at lock entrance
Overheard in
Well built community dock and harbor. Twenty bucks for a slip under cover. In the next slip a retired couple on a houseboat. They smile and greet us before we even tie off. Like they’ve been waiting for us. Apparently had heard of us. Bobby had walked up to the slip quietly before we got the boat there and overheard them talking about some guys on a pontoon from
They commence through smiley faces to deluge us with the minutiae of their lives. Each line well worn. Oft repeated. Little vignettes of their past to tag onto any topic at all. Designed to be engaging and conversational. Hand-crafted over time. Refined and rehearsed for effect. Reminding me of the perfect shallow ideals of the ‘50’s. They kind of glom on to us. We don’t glom back; just bob and weave politely through a little banter as we gather up our cooking gear and carry it to the end of the pier to prepare a sunset dinner as Tenzin kayaks off for beer.
A little later I walk back to the slip quietly barefoot to get something. As I near their houseboat I overhear them talking inside their houseboat, arguing back and forth. Bickering. Same kind of practiced routine about it as the bantered chatter. But angry and argumentative.
Makes me think of the old Mohican Peacemaker I know, Aunt Dot, from Stockbridge. When she’s called in to do some peacemaking in a family dispute, she gets the people together and says “What is it about fighting that you like?”
Back at the end of the pier Tenzin returns with the beer and I say “Tenzin, if I ever get like that, don’t take me out and shoot me cuz I don’t want you to get in trouble…but feel free to let me die.”
Early evening light
A wave of bats
Near a half mile long at times
Undulating cohesively
Over the river
Rolling as a fast wave
Thick and connected thousands
Suddenly they split in the middle
And half of this wave veers off to the left
Making its’ own swoop off the river
Low over the east shore trees
The other half of this quick elastic wave
Dives down out of sight behind an island
And poof
It’s over
Unless you could read
The history of the air
You’d never know what happened
We push in the late day light
To get some more miles
Stay on our way to make it
It gets a little rough out there
We’ve passed some harbors
Pushing a little more
A bit of a squall building
Racing the darkness
Trying to keep the elemental
Pieces together
Which we do
Making camp
Making food
Covering the logistical waters
And when it’s done
I watch my three mates
Scrambling for high ground
Looking for signal
Taking their heads to other places
The officious twit
With his hands on his hips
Said ‘we think it was a tornado’
The golden friendly young lady
Pumping our gas
Said she heard it was a microblast
The timid cashier
Wasn’t quite sure
Said her boss was talkin’ wind shear
Whatever it was
It mangled the metal
That once roofed boats in the harbor
And left sections of dock upturned
They say the whole thing
Just lasted five seconds
A town that knows how to throw a party. Relax the rules. Let your collective hair down. Take all the authoritarians who’ve ever used the phrase “it’s for your own safety” and send them on vacation. Run the whole place on common sense, the Golden Rule and whatever fun folks come up with. And when those tight asses come back from vacation be sure to tell them tales.
Nice little two grocery store town,
Turbidity
All or part of 28 states (some say more) drain or flow into this river. Water from all sources; whether falling from the sky or coming up through the ground. It all joins into this river. As a result, especially on the
There are whirlpools down here (some folks seem to call them eddies) that sometimes dot the surface as far as the eye can see. Vortexes. So much swirling subsurface power that the surface stays flat. Ominously, deceptively flat. Even the winds, upstream, downstream or cross winds, can’t disturb the surface. When the waves are breaking, the whirlpools look inviting and friendly. They are not.
There are what you might call families of swirling whirlpools; bunches of little vortexes within a grander one. The flat circle might be 50 feet across, some say they’ve seen them well over twice that size. A big one is concave in the center. If it has little ones within it, they might be concave too. And not more than a foot away might be another of equal size and complexity.
Speaking of complexity, right in the middle of a sea of these vortices might be an equal number of boils. Those being places where the water seems to be erupting upwards from somewhere. You can even hear the big ones over the sound of the motor. (They say the big whirlpools hiss, but I haven’t heard it over the sound of the boat.) It’s a kind of bubbling or boiling sound.
The whirlpools and boils will push this boat somewhat unpredictably with their interaction. The way most of their power is subsurface. The way the whole dance is moving downstream very seriously while it’s doing whatever all else.
Jonathan Rabban in his book ‘Old Glory’ calls the effect on a small boat “slippery”. Can’t disagree with that adjective.
So you can have the current making an overall ripple; the wind making waves in a different direction; smooth amoebically circular flat surfaced whirlpools that pull down over a foot in their centers; and boils that bubble up many erratic inches, even at these low water levels.
This River requires one’s attention…and respect.
You Can’t Make This Shit Up
Yesterday a fish jumped onto our boat
We were several seconds stunned
As no doubt was the fish
Then we hooted and laughed
At the two pound flying carp
Because it was the stuff
Of impossible tales
Generations of fish stories
Flopping around on the deck
Like we’ve never seen before
Nor likely hence
A few hours later
Turning East to
Run up the Kaskaskia
All of a sudden
Whoosh here comes another one
Right through the open door
On the front of the pontoon.
We whooped and hollered
Someone mentioned dying and
Going to heaven
The improbability more
Than we could really assess
And then this afternoon
Just after the
While the waters were roiling
As the two mighty rivers sorted out
Their new and irrevocable marriage
No more than a couple miles downstream
Some bigger fish started jumping
Alongside the boat
They’d jump a few feet in the air
Then hit the water only to jump again
Sometimes 3 or 4 times like a stone
Skipping on water
And we were jazzed by it all
Pointing and yelling out
So as a joke
I got up with a grin
Went and opened the bow door
And before I could get back to my chair
This 25 pound flying carp
Landed on the front deck and came
Flipping and thrashing through the door
All the way back to Tenzin at the wheel
Trailing blood and scales
And I remember thinking
Wait a minute that was supposed to be a joke
I tell you
You can’t make this shit up.
Then toward evening
Pulling into
Motoring slow toward town
6 more fish jumped onto the boat
For a total of 9.
It would’ve been 10 but one bounced
Off Bobby’s chest
And landed back in the water.
You can’t make this shit up.
I’d add that the next morning another fish came 6 feet out of the water and over our side rails, just missing Sean’s open laptop and thumped down in our stern…but I don’t want to stretch my credulity beyond what the uninitiated can believe.
Where y’all from?
We put in up in
Where y’all headed?
Just to
We got good barbeque right here in
Barge Wake On The
“You take about 36 empty barges and a big tug going upstream on the Lower and you got yourself a phenomenon.”
This is the stuff into which
Bobby did a bow stall.
The initial waves are big slow rollers
Then you meet the churn
Spinning off the four foot rolling holes
Following the stern
About then run into waves returning
From shore
Having ricocheted off both banks
They cross through each other
And in so doing make waves out of wake
That break straight up
On the surface
While underneath the cross currents
Meld momentum and move on
With giant slow motion.
When the biggest wave breaks over our bow
The tug and barges are a mile away.
Steady As She Goes
We passed the Roberta Tabor
Pushing fifteen loaded barges
Our first day out of
And again, and yet again
Ten days later
Thirty miles shy of
Tenzin found some time to think
Sean in a hammock blogged away
Bobby called it a rare vacation
There was cold beer each and every day
Folks are going to great lengths these days to keep the
So these days they have wing dams and rip rap, locks and levees, dams and the mighty expensive Corps of Engineers. Stilts for the stubborn and sea walls for the rest.
People have a circumscribed sense of adventure. They don’t want to move to another state even if they don’t have to leave home to do it. Guess they don’t want the hassle of pro rating their year’s taxes between two states, or have to start all over again fighting with another school board. But life is short, and it might be worth it just for the fun of watching the apoplexy it would cause local politicians.
Anyway, we’re sure doing whatever we can think of to keep that scary old river right where it is. When people misunderstand something, and are afraid of it they don’t treat it well. Real power deserves real respect. So folks wall the river out of their lives, like an enemy. Well they don’t have to look at it, but they still gotta smell it.
OBSERVATIONS
Each day a few lone butterflies flitted past out in the middle of the river. Some right through the boat. Black, red, yellow, blue ones.
It would be a good idea to have a radio set along to communicate with tugs, locks and other larger boats.
Those new cots with mosquito netting tented over them would be ideal for sleeping on the boat or shore.
If I were to do this again it would be in a faster boat.
You could run the Upper with a minimum of supplies --- gas, food and shelter. Good maps can get you most everything when needed. The Lower is more problematic. Almost nothing is readily available by water.
Maps: What this
Great Blue Herons are the dominant large bird all the way down. Sometimes several per mile standing still in the shallows.
The best way to go down the river is in a hammock.
Not much wildlife seen on the shores other than birds. The occasional deer, and the odd thing Tenzin and I saw that looked like a giant gray squirrel with digging legs (bushy tail and all).
You can go for hours (at our speeds anyway) on the Lower without seeing another private craft --- just tugs with barges. You can go days without seeing a proper dock --- just primitive boat ramps here and there. The valuable and singular exception being Hoppie’s Landing. An oasis on the water.
Before going read Jonathan Rabban’s “Old Glory” paying special attention to tips on small craft navigation. And Mark Twain’s “Life on the
THE GOOD SHIP SUNBIRD
A lesser vessel would not have fared so well.